We spent a week on board the Scarlet Lady, from Virgin Voyages, Richard Branson's adults-only cruise line. Here is what we loved, what let us down, and the little tips we now give our clients before they sail.
A week without kids
You don't realize how good it feels to spend a week without children. You realize it pretty quickly, though, when you go ashore at a port of call at the same time as passengers from other cruise lines.
The guests are mostly American, younger and more varied than on Celebrity or Princess, but you also come across travellers with walkers or mobility scooters. The line is very open and very inclusive. We had heard about a somewhat racy reputation: we saw nothing of the sort. It is a cruise for adults, with an atmosphere you wouldn't see on Norwegian, but without excess. One thing is certain: for people-watching, it never disappoints.
What we loved
The themed nights
They are in a world of their own, and people go all out: pyjama night, 80s night, and above all the famous Scarlet Night, when the roughly 2,000 passengers dress in red. It is a beautiful sight, and you wonder how many suitcases some people brought. The music and the DJs are excellent: you can feel Branson's touch.
The drinks, and the Bar Tab
A Heineken was US$7, and there are plenty of good wines at around US$40 a bottle. Oddly, the American wines and the Bordeaux go higher, but there are always two or three choices for connoisseurs in that range. The cocktails change from one bar to the next, and you can tell the mixologists put real work into them.
I really liked the Bar Tab, a bar amount you prepay before departure. On an all-inclusive, I always had a glass in my hand. Seeing what is left on your Bar Tab makes you choose what you drink. Mind you, I had underestimated mine and spent a little more than planned, but I feel I was far more reasonable than with a drinks package.
The cabin: the hammock and the tablet
The cabins are spotless and cleverly designed. When you open the door during the day, the curtains open by themselves: the kind of detail that doesn't go unnoticed. The balcony hammock is a hit with everyone. Every time we stepped out onto the balcony, one of us was in it, and we suspect our neighbour spent the whole week in hers.
Everything is controlled from a tablet: the TV, the lights, the mood lighting, the music. Very handy at night, to shut everything off, lights and curtains, without getting out of bed.
The crew
One of my favourite things. Every staff member is in a contagiously good mood, smiling and welcoming. You can tell they enjoy their work, without chasing tips.
The app
After reading bad reviews, I was skeptical. It is not quite as advanced as Disney's, but not far off: you book your restaurants and activities, track your spending and your Bar Tab, and receive all the messages from the ship. Shake your phone and someone brings you Moët & Chandon champagne wherever you are on the ship (at your own expense, of course). Very useful all week, without becoming intrusive.
The wristband
Ever since I experienced it down south, I find it hard to go back to the plastic card. Every transaction goes through the wristband, which you hold up to the staff member's phone, shops included, and it is also your cabin key. We could feel the envy of the other cruise passengers in port.
Staying active
Virgin really understands its guests. This is a far cry from water aerobics: yoga, spinning, boxing and many other classes. The ship also has a jogging track on deck 16 that overlooks the whole vessel. It is magnificent, even for a simple walk, and runners and walkers share it without any trouble.
The design
Bars, restaurants, decks: the design is refined and very easy on the eyes, with lots of photogenic corners. Depending on your mood, you move from a hushed, all-velvet champagne bar to a ship's woodwork setting where you play arcade games with a bag of popcorn.
À la carte restaurants, included
"Unlimited" is a little misleading, since it is one reservation per night, but still: where other lines charge extra for specialty restaurants, Virgin includes them for everyone. You discover several cuisines over the week instead of one big dining room: Mexican, French, Italian, Korean, Chinese and avant-garde.
Our favourites: the Italian Extra Virgin, the Mexican Pink Agave, the Korean barbecue Gunbae, and The Wake, the steak and seafood grill, which also serves boozy brunches. I had the best steak and eggs of my life there.
Lunch at The Galley
The lunch offering is impressive, and surprisingly good. You can eat almost anywhere, but the place to be is The Galley: ramen bar, burgers (not far from the best fries I've ever had), sushi made within the hour, sandwiches, salads, tacos, with menus that change. You never get tired of it, and the service is fast, in stations. You will also find soft drinks, juice, ice, coffee and tea, and something to take back to your cabin or ashore. The Galley is open at all hours, and the burger counter 24 hours a day.
Nobody comes to fetch you
This is a far cry from Club Med: no entertainer comes to drag you by the arm, and there is no entertainment around the pools apart from the DJs. That suits me perfectly. Don't worry, there is something to do at any hour.
Gratuities included
Unlike other lines, Virgin includes gratuities up front. No added charges or surprises at the end of the cruise, and no need to carry around US$1 bills.
Activities for solo travellers
I didn't take part, but the concept is excellent: game nights, karaoke, parties or dinners for those travelling alone who want to meet people.
Board games and two quizzes a day
It's raining, you've finished your book, or you're waiting for a late dinner: there is a nice selection of board games, and two quizzes a day. Rather fun with a beer in hand, and the hosts make you want to join in.
Never a feeling of crowds
The ship was almost full, and we never felt crowded. Even getting off the ship went without any wait. There was always somewhere quiet to be.
What we liked less
Two disappointing restaurants
Our expectations were high, and two restaurants let us down. Test Kitchen, an experimental kitchen in a stainless-steel, fine-dining kitchen setting: beautiful presentation, but rather bland dishes and slow service. Everyone who tried it shared that opinion. I would advise my clients not to book it.
Lucky Lotus by Razzle Dazzle, the Chinese menu Razzle Dazzle serves in the evening: of five dishes, all five were less than ordinary. For someone who rarely eats Asian food, it may be different, but if you know real Chinese cooking, the flavours just aren't there. I won't book it next time.
The pools are small
To my great surprise. There are two on the main deck: a small, intimate one for about 25 people, and a bigger, livelier one for about 50. On very hot days, they are packed, and with all the sunscreen in the water, it doesn't make you want to jump in. There are several hot tubs, very popular, but I admit I'm not keen on sharing a tub with lots of strangers. That's a personal thing.
A gym too small for its popularity
With a rather young and fit clientele, the gym overflows in the early hours. It has two rooms: cardio, with about twenty machines (bikes, ellipticals, treadmills), and dumbbells and strength machines. Several times we found the rooms packed.
Late dinner reservations
I booked as soon as reservations opened in the app, a month before departure, and we still ended up dining late, around 8:15 p.m. on average. That could bother some travellers. Along the way, we discovered we could show up at the time we wanted and slip in between two reservations. Our guess: the best times go to members of Virgin's loyalty program.
The invisible marine crew
Another passenger pointed it out to me. You never see the captain or the sailors mingling with passengers, as is often the case elsewhere. It didn't bother me, but someone passionate about navigation might be disappointed.
Little shade on deck
When the ship is full, there can be a shortage of parasols: there are far more spots in the sun than in the shade. As early risers, we had no problem. Otherwise, you can rent a cabana, but that is an extra that adds up quickly.
Our pro tips
- Bring two bottles of wine when you board. Virgin allows two per cabin, at embarkation only, and there is a fridge to keep the white chilled. Perfect for happy hour on the balcony, already taken care of. Note: wine or beer only, no spirits.
- For room service, order more than $10. Delivery is $10, unless the order includes a paid item over $10. Add two beers for happy hour, keep them in the fridge, and have breakfast in your cabin with no delivery charge.
- Try the restaurants even without a reservation. By going through the staff or simply showing up, you can often get a table, even when it shows as full. Not every night, but it's worth a try now and then.
- Bring a small Bluetooth speaker. You can't connect over Bluetooth in the cabin, and the TV only offers three music channels.
- Book your transportation before you disembark. It's chaos getting off the ship, since most people have breakfast before leaving. It took us five attempts and a good 45 minutes to get an Uber or Lyft driver (Lyft came out much less expensive), and the taxi line was about a hundred metres long. With a tight flight, it could have become very stressful.
- Book your excursions ahead of time. Virgin's are limited and fill up fast. If you like to go with the cruise line, don't wait, or you'll miss the boat, no pun intended.
Included or extra?
What we experienced, confirmed by the Virgin Voyages website:
| Included | Extra on board |
|---|---|
| IncludedAll restaurants, one à la carte reservation per night | Extra on boardAlcohol, by the glass or through the Bar Tab |
| IncludedGratuities | Extra on boardSpa treatments |
| IncludedBasic Wi-Fi | Extra on boardFaster Wi-Fi |
| IncludedWater, soft drinks, juice, tea, drip coffee | Extra on boardExcursions |
| IncludedGroup classes (yoga, spinning, boxing) | Extra on boardRoom service delivery ($10) and cabanas |
Who is it for?
It's for you if…
- you're travelling as adults, as a couple, with friends or on your own;
- you love good food, lively evenings and great design;
- you hate surprises on the bill at the end of the week.
Look elsewhere if…
- you're travelling with anyone under 18;
- you want unlimited alcohol included up front;
- you dream of big pools and lounge chairs in the shade at any hour.
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